Lapidary Heaven

Tips & Drills for the Youth Football Defensive Back

To become a good football defensive back, it is important at an early age to practice the fundamentals over and over through football drills customized to improve the specific skills and athleticism needed. A few football defensive back drills are listed below but you can find many more free football defensive back skills & drills videos and tutorials online at websites like Weplay.com

Three basic fundamentals for the youth football defensive back to learn are the proper stance, how to backpedal, and how to perform an effective break. Defensive backs are known as the secondary defensive unit in football. Most commonly they are the corners, safety and, in some defensive schemes, the nickel or dime back.

1. Stance
   There are various ways for a coach to teach the most effective defensive back stance at the line of scrimmage. Of course, every coach is looking to gain an edge on every play, and in the case of defensive backs, he wants every advantage for coming off the line with speed and power. A staggered stance with the feet is thought to be most effective for balance and agility.
   The feet should be positioned with the toe of one foot lined up with the instep of the other foot. The feet should be shoulder- width apart with most of the weight positioned over the balls of the feet. This position provides for ease of movement while reacting to the play and maintaining balance. The back should be straight with the head up surveying the field. The arms should be hanging loosely at the sides.
2. Backpedal
   Becoming adept at backpedaling is an important skill in the defensive backs arsenal. This takes hours of practice for the youth football defensive back who is trying to find his feet, so to speak. He must learn to backpedal with speed and balance while not tripping over his own feet.
3. The Break
   The break is a transition from backpedaling to closing in on the receiver to break up the play. A defensive back that can cover, backpedal, and break fluently and efficiently can shut down an opponents passing game. Anticipating the timing of the “break” is an art form. If the defensive back breaks too early, the quarterback may look elsewhere for a play. If he breaks too late, the pass may already be complete.

Below are some examples of drills to practice to improve as a football defensive back:

Youth Football Defensive Back Drills

• Defensive Back Backpedal Drill – Create two single-file lines at the sidelines. On the whistle, two defensive backs begin backpedaling to the hashmarks. The players should be bent forward at the waist, feet shoulder-width apart with their weight positioned evenly over the balls of their feet.
• Backpedal with Reaction to the Football – This youth football defensive back drill will teach the players how to break quickly from a backpedal position. Line the players up as mentioned above. Have the defensive backs perform the same backpedaling drill. Once they reach the hashmarks, throw a football either right or left to force them to break. You can perform this with a whistle as well and forego the football. Just whistle when you want them to break.

Like all youth football drills, practicing these and other drills help make the defensive fundamentals second nature to the youth player, and they can be practiced off the field too, whether in your back yard or out in the park.

About the Author

By Trevor Sumner who works for Weplay.com, a youth football community dedicated to providing parents coaches and athletes the tools and information to celebrate the love of the game. Weplay.com has one of the most comprehensive, free football drill libraries in its active football community.

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Pro-Quality 20-Piece Diamond-Point Bit Set for Rotary Tool – Glass, Stone, Ceramic $1.10 Professional Quality, 1/8 in. Shank, 180 Grit. Includes 20 assorted shapes covered with diamond particles. All bits have 1/8 in. shanks and come in convienient plastic holder. Excellent for fine detail work, cutting, engraving, carving, touch-up and finishing. Use on wood, jade, ceramic, glass, hardened steel, semi-precious stones and other hard materials….

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What’s a really good brand nail drill that lots of manucurist use?

I have my cosmo license and I’m currently working in a salon cutting hair but I want to start doing nails also..I went to school for hair so I don’t know too much about giving fullsets and all that stuff.. I wanted to know what kind of nail drill i should invest in.. What’s a popular brand?

I would like to make a suggestion to you. And that is to learn how to do nails first, get good at them, all the while practicing and perfecting your hand filing skills. See, you are going to need to know how to do this in order to use an e-fie correctly. Plus, most of the time a tech will use a combination of both the e-file (to take down the acrylic, or gel), and then finish file by hand. An e-file is often used to prep the nail but this takes lots of practice to do, and do it right!
But, to answer your question, there are only a few major companies that the vast majority of nail techs buy their e-files from. Sure, there are a lot of other companies that make them, but you asked which is popular, right? OK, I’ll help you with that one. But, first let me mention that e-files are available in all different price ranges. Honestly, you are NOT going to find anything of decent quality for less than about $200 – at the very minimum. And that’s even a low figure. A GOOD e-file will cost between $275-$500. You see, it’s just not worth it to get a cheap one because of many factors, a few of which are:
- They tend to have excessive vibration
- They are not durable and long lasting
- Heavy, and bulky handpieces are common
- And all this adds up to a bad experience for both you, and the client. You will be aching from holding a heavy, vibrating handpiece all day long, and your clients can feel that vibration right through their nails.
On the other hand, the characteristics of a good, reliable e-file include the following, and then some!
- Low to no vibration in the handpiece (none is preferred, but I have yet to find one that doesn’t vibrate lightly)
- A small, slim, and lightweight handpiece – makes all the difference in the world at the end of the day! Plus, these are easier to use.
- Powerful, meaning they should have lots of ‘torque.’ You don’t want an e-file that is going to bog down while doing a nail which does happen on the cheaper models. This is not good…
- They should have a half turn chuck as opposed to one where the bit is simply pushed in and held there by pressure. These wear out in no time.
- They are durable, and should last you for at least 10 or more years – at the very least…
OK, having said all that, here are the very top choices of e-files of most nail techs that I have even talked to or known personally – or even read about in trade magazines or message boards too. And they are:
#1) The Erica MT-20. Absolute top-of-the-line e-file. This is the “King of the road” in e-files, in my opinion. It’s costs around $410 – depending on where you get it. It’s a GREAT efile. I have one and I love it. You can look at this model at:

http://www.gelessentialz.com/catalog/item/4226508/4155835.htm

I also have a Super UP-200. This is a great e-file as well, but the handpiece is a little bulky and big for my hands (they’re on the small side!). But, overall, it’s one of the best out there. It goes for about $485.
Those and one other brand – a major manufacturer of e-files – Kupa, can be found here:

http://shop.kupainc.com/main.sc

Kupa does not make the UP-200. They are the sole American distributor for this brand. Kupa puts out their own line of e-files which are also top of the line – but also exensive like the rest of them. While looking at this site, you will notice a line of e-files called the “Mani-Pro’s” Avoid the lower priced ones if at all possible. Not very good e-files at all for several reasons. Anyway, just stick with ANY e-file that Kupa makes that has their KP-36 handpiece, and you cannot go wrong.
Why am I making such a big deal about handpieces? Simple. About 2/3 of the cost of an e-file is the handpiece itself. The control box is really nothing but a few electronic switches and dials. The handpiece is where that motor is, and that is important to know. So, you really need to get an e-file that fits your hands well, has hardly any vibration, is powerful, and is lightweight too. The KP-36 handpiece.is all of these in one little unit. And so is the Erica MT-20. I love that handpiece!!! It’s so slim, and lightweight tht you could use it all day and not get tired from it.
Anyway, the better models from Kupa are in the upper $300 to about $485 or so range in terms of cost. These three companies that I mentioned – especially the models I mentioned are THE most used e-files, and the most preferred in the nail industry.
Seeing how it is such an investment, that is another reason I suggested to learn how to hand file first, and master that before using ANY e-file!!!. Using an e-file is an entirely different world of filing. You can ruin someones nails in the blink of an eye if you are not careful with an e-file. ANd, one last thing. Skip the “starter” e-file routine that many people go for. That means buying something cheap now, and upgrading in a year or so to a more expensive, better model. It’s a waste of time, and money. You’ll end up hating the fact that you didn’t just go for the good one right from the start. Really, get the best you can afford for your very first e-file. You’ll be very happy that you did that, trust me on that!
Now, for the bits: The very best you can get are genuine Swiss Carbide bits made by:

http://www.atwoodindustries.net/

These are a bit costly, but are worth every penny you pay. Avoid the cheap ones, not worth it at all. ALl of this companie’s bits are the best – whether carbide, Swiss carbide, or diamond. They are ALL top of the line bits.
Well, I hope this helps! Best of luck to you!!!
PS: Beware of ANY e-files for sale on ebay. There are a LOT of bad ones for sale, and a LOT of knock off units as well. Best to buy from reputable American based companies directly, and not on ebay….
(SORRY THIS WAS SOOOO LONG!!!)

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